Ed is a horticultural therapist, professional gardener and writer. Ed has a BSc in Occupational Therapy from Coventry University and a Diploma in Social and Therapeutic Horticulture (DipSTH) via Thive, the RHS and Pershore College. Ed runs a community kitchen garden in West Sussex, where he leads horticultural therapy sessions.
Reviewed By COLIN SKELLY
Colin is a Horticulturist and Horticultural Consultant with experience in a range of practical and managerial roles across heritage, commercial and public horticulture. He holds the Royal Horticultural Society’s Master of Horticulture award and has a particular interest in horticultural ecology and naturalistic planting for habitat and climate resilience.
Contributions From LYNN SLACKMAN
Lynn is the current President of the North American Lily Society. She has been growing lilies for years and is a keen gardener. The society has over 2,500 followers on Facebook and is a great place for those in the US to meet and discuss any relevant lily care.
IN THIS GUIDE
Asiatic lilies are possibly one of the most colourful and vibrant bulbs that can be grown in the garden.
Although typically unscented, Asiatic lilies are available in almost every colour under the sun and are one of the first lilies to bloom in summer.
As one of the shorter varieties of the Liliaceae family, they are perfect for growing in pots and containers or for the middle or front of the border.
“I use Asiatic Lilies in pots and containers where their shorter height comes in handy compared to the taller Oriental Lilies which can be a bit tall for anything but the largest pots,” shares Master Horticulturist Colin Skelly.
“What the Asiatic Lilies lack in fragrance they make for in visual punch.”
This guide features Lynn Slackman, the current President of the North American Lily Society.
“I’ve been growing and caring for plants for as long as I can remember,” says Lynn.
“Like all plants, proper care and growing conditions are important. The beauty of lilies offers a reward like no other.”
Overview
| Botanical Name | Lilium asiatica |
| Common Name(s) | Asiatic Lily |
| Plant Type | Ornamental Bulb |
| Native Area | Asia |
| Hardiness Rating | H5 |
| Foliage | Deciduous |
| Flowers | Yellow, orange and red flowers |
| When To Plant | September-November |
| When To Prune | July-August |
Sunlight
Preferred
Full Sun or Part Shade
Exposure
Sheltered
Size
Height
0.3 – 1M
Spread
0.3 – 0.5M
Bloom Time
Summer
Soil
Preferred
Most fertile soils
Moisture
Moist but well-drained
pH
Alkaline to neutral
Asiatic lilies, as their name suggests, originate from parts of Asia and are much less fussy when it comes to growing them when compared to the rather similar Oriental lily.
Sadly, the majority of Asiatic lilies are unscented, unlike the oriental varieties, but don’t let this put you off as they are available in the most wonderful array of colours, ready to suit any planting scheme.
“Lilies put on a show in my summer garden,” Lynn says.
“They don’t take up much space and reward me with amazing colours, size, fragrance, and beauty that is unsurpassed.”
Grown from bulbs, they develop deep green and glossy leaves with their upward-facing blooms triumphantly displayed at the top of the stems.
Although generally shorter when compared to other lilies, they still pack a punch and are brilliant at providing a burst of colour into the garden.
Common Varieties
When it comes to choosing Asiatic lilies, the choice is endless.
With most being a similar size, it really comes down to the choice of colour, which ranges from red and orange to pink and even black – there is one for every garden or terrace.
Asiatic lily bulbs are often available from autumn onwards, whether from garden centres or online growers.
With lilies especially, it is always worth buying only good quality bulbs, as if they have been allowed to completely dry out it is unlikely that they will come to anything in spring.
To help you choose here is a selection of some of the best to grow here in the UK.
L. ‘Cavoli’
This variety is perfect for containers due to its compact nature, growing to only 40cm tall and 25cm wide.
With its luxurious deep red flowers, it really stands out from the crowd.
L. ‘White Twinkle’
‘White Twinkle’ is an absolute stunner, with its creamy white blooms with deep red spots.
Sometimes scented, it looks wonderful when used as a cut flower or when planted in a border.
As a larger variety, it can grow to 1m in height.
L. ‘Forever Marjolein’
This variety is an Asiatic hybrid and provides a real burst of colour with its bright pink petals with orange centres.
A beautiful flower, it is larger than some, so can be better suited to a border or large container.
L. ‘Purple Dream’
‘Purple Dream’ is a newly bred lily with pink and purple petals and freckles.
With an eventual size 90cm tall and 40cm wide, it is ideally suited to a border or large container.
L. ‘Lollypop’
‘Lollypop’ looks like her name would suggest and is a cheering addition to any garden.
With white and raspberry two-tone petals and flashes of green, the flowers are magnificent.
Where To Grow Asiatics
Asiatic lilies flower best when given as much sun as possible, although they can cope with partial shade.
When choosing where to plant the bulbs or place their container it is best to aim for at least 6 hours of sunlight a day, in order to get the best from them.
Lilies usually grow on straight stems, however, if grown in the shade beware that they may tend to grow towards the light, even at an angle.
Asiatic lilies grow best in fertile and moist, but well-drained soil.
However, they hate to be allowed to sit in wet or water-logged soil as this can cause the bulbs to rot.
Unlike oriental lilies which require an ericaceous soil, Asiatic varieties prefer a neutral to alkaline pH.
Planting Asiatic Lilies
Lilies, along with many other bulbs and plants tend to look best when planted in an odd number, three, five or seven as a group tends to work.
Even three in a small pot is surprisingly effective, as the bulbs soon multiply leading to more flowers in the subsequent years.
Lily bulbs are usually quite large and need to be planted deep, and Asiatic bulbs are no exception.
Where at all possible the bulbs need to be planted at least 10-15cm below soil level and at a spacing of 15-30cm depending on their variety and eventual size.
I’d recommend planting Asiatic lily bulbs from autumn onwards, right up until April, apart from when the soil is frozen or waterlogged.
Asiatic lily bulbs are hardy generally down to temperatures of -10 to -15°C and require little protection over the winter in the south of the UK.
However, in colder parts of the UK, it may be necessary to cover those directly planted with mulch or fleece or move pots undercover during very cold spells.
When purchasing lily bulbs, they should be firm to touch and mould-free and ideally be planted soon on arrival, as they can dry out if left too long.
The principle for planting directly into the ground or in a container is the same, although if using a container or pot it is especially important to check for drainage holes, as these are essential to avoid the bulbs rotting in wet soil.
Before filling the pot with compost, it is worth adding some drainage material first, such as some crocks or gravel to allow any excess water to drain away freely.
Fill part way with a general-purpose peat-free compost and arrange the bulbs at the required depth with the roots facing down and the tips pointing up and top up with compost.
If the compost feels too dense, it is worth adding some horticultural grit to the mix to increase its drainage.
Water after planting and keep the soil moist, but not wet.
“Lilies need to have their roots in the shade and their heads should be able to float in the sun,” Lynn advises.
“Adequate moisture during hot and dry conditions is essential.”
Ongoing Plant Care
Feeding
Lilies in general are heavy feeders, so it is advisable to add a slow-release fertiliser at the time of planting and feed every 2 weeks during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid feed, such as a tomato fertiliser.
Pruning
Once Asiatic lilies have finished flowering, the flowers can be deadheaded just below the flower to prevent them from going to seed.
However, it is vital to leave the stems and foliage on to die back naturally and replenish the bulb’s energy before removing it in the autumn.
Supporting
Staking with metal or bamboo supports and tying in may be required, especially for taller varieties, as having waited for the plants to flower the last thing you want is the flower stems to bend and break.
Dividing
Over time, as the bulbs multiply, flowering may be reduced as the bulbs become overcrowded and baby bulbs are produced.
Early autumn is an ideal time to divide the bulbs, once the foliage has died back and been removed.
To divide, carefully dig up the bulbs and split them into smaller, more manageable groups to replant.
The baby bulbs lifted can be removed, potted up and overwintered under cover to grow on and plant out the following year.
Problems & Pests
“Lilies are attractive to people as well as common airborne bacteria, fungi, insects, and small mammals,” says Lynn.
“Appropriate care and prevention from predatory factions is key to success.”
Red Lily Beetle
The red lily beetle, or Lilioceris lilii, is a beautiful insect, but don’t let its appearance charm you as it can strip a prized lily bare.
The bright red beetles are a similar size to a ladybird and can easily be seen with the naked eye.
Now widespread in the UK, red lily beetles are sadly a common sight.
The beetle and its grubs feed on the foliage, seed pods and even petals leading to not only a patchwork of holes but poor health of the actual bulb as well.
Frustratingly, adult beetles are capable of overwintering in the vicinity, so control methods must be applied during the growing season.
If the red lily beetle is present, it is advisable to try and tolerate small numbers of beetles or try organic methods, before considering a pesticidal approach.
Non-pesticidal approaches can include encouraging predators such as birds, frogs and ground beetles into the area and removing the beetles by hand where possible.
When necessary, organic insecticides containing natural pyrethrin ingredients can be used.
However, these often have a short window of action and frequent reapplication may be required, as per their instructions.
If all else fails, pesticides can be used, but it is inadvisable to use these when the plant is in flower due to the danger it poses to any pollinators present.
Slugs And Snails
Young fresh Asiatic lily shoots emerging in spring can be especially susceptible to damage from slugs and snails.
Control methods against slugs and snails can include picking off by hand, torch-lit night-time hunts, encouraging predators such as birds and frogs and using barrier methods.
It is often recommended to combine a few of these approaches in order to be effective.
Vine Weevils
The vine weevil, another type of beetle, can be problematic to many garden plants, especially those grown in containers which include the Asiatic lily.
The adult beetle feeds on the foliage edges during the summer, but more worryingly, the grubs feed on the roots and base of the bulb in winter.
Controls can include torch-lit night-time hunts and picking off adults by hand, along with applying nematodes, a type of biological control.
Nematodes can prove effective, but their use is limited by the outside temperature, so cannot be used all year round.
If nematodes fail, a systemic insecticide can be used on ornamental plants only.
